Direct or indirect dough? Classic or contemporary processing methods? Tuttopizza and its Master classes show how Mulino Caputo has the right solution to bring out each artisan recipes. Here's what we learned about the new products from the Mill of Naples.
Three days to discover everything about the Neapolitan Pizza, from the historical curiosities with the old masters who tell the tradition, to the new trends: this is Tuttopizza, the Neapolitan festival that has kept for years now the spotlights on that intangible heritage of humanity that is the art of the Neapolitan pizza makers.
And some of this year's news about the world of the White Art of Mulino Caputo is really important.
Let's start from Nuvola – the cloud – the flour range for the modern leavened products launched by Mulino Caputo some time ago, but told here in Naples during Tuttopizza's days thanks to the master classes by Vincenzo Iannucci and Raffaele Bonetta.
«The key word of the contemporary Neapolitan pizza and especially of the processing with the flour Nuvola from Mulino Caputo is meltiness» - explains during his demonstration Vincenzo Iannucci, pizza maker and expert in contemporary White Art.
You can think about meltiness as a complex word combining together softness, fluffiness, elasticity, perfect chewability and complete digestibility.
But how is it possible to get this result?
« Changing the order of the factors - continues Iannucci - or rather through a processing that becomes an evolution of the tradition! It is water that gives the modern dough its meltiness, increasing hydration and lowering the oven temperature, to give the liquid part time to evaporate and to produce a surprising result. However, you also need to know how to choose the right flour. For the contemporary doughs, Mulino Caputo proposes two flours: Nuvola and Nuvola Super».
But why 2 products?
The reason was explained during the Master Classes by Iannucci and Bonetta.
Nuvola is in fact more suitable for direct doughs with 18-30 hours of leavening.
Nuvola Super is instead suitable for:
● direct doughs with a very long leavening time (more than 30 hours)
● indirect doughs, both biga and poolish
● and for pan pizza and peel pizza.
But what is the difference between direct and indirect doughs?
This time was Roberto Susta, master pizza maker of the Dolce e Salato School in Maddaloni, to explain the difference.
The direct dough requires that all the ingredients, flour, water, salt and yeast, are processed together, directly.
The indirect one, on the other hand, calls for a pre-mixing phase with biga.
«The biga – told Susta during its master class - it is a bit like the ancient chariot with the same name used at the time of the Roman Empire - that is, it acts as a towing force for the dough and can be at the 20-30% (matched by a 70-80% of direct dough) or 100%. The higher the pre-mixing percentage, the more the meltiness and you will flavor the lactic scent and the typical aroma of products made with mother yeast. Obviously, this requires a more complex processing».
An indispensable factor for a quality leavening is obviously yeast, in addition to the technique used and the flours chosen.
«There are many options on the market for both fresh and dry products - continues Susta during his Master Class - but a dry yeast like the one produced by Mulino Caputo has many advantages: 1) It is ready to use; 2) it can be kept much longer; 3) it has a greater use stability; and 4) you just need only a third of the quantity, compared with the fresh one».
In short, the presence of Mulino Caputo at Tuttopizza shows that the world of the White Art is a constantly evolving universe where the mills are increasingly an instrument for the needs of artisans and pizza makers more and more aware of the importance of their role as a driving force for the tradition and Made in Italy.